I am sorry

I haven't been any good this season about updating. I have had my hands in so many things (my organic baking business, garden, marketing, building a website, helping others with their websites, etc) that updating the gardening blog has been...

Now Blooming

First, let me say, I took some pictures about a few days ago and never posted, so I thought I would now. I have been working on a re-design in my garden; getting things at different heights and of course integrating more texture. Here's a view from my window one rainy day (forgive splashes of water on my window- the pictures are a bit grainy because of it):



Moving on to "Now Blooming": My little seedlings have been sprouting in their homemade germination tray (see post below) and flowers and fruit are all over the place outside. Here's what we have:

Egg-tray seedlings (cosmos, lemon-lime basil and oregano):




Outdoors I found:

"Save Some Green" Seed Starters

You guys like all those S's?

Want to get a jump on the season- even while the snow is flying outside (as it is currently)? Seed- aka "germination"- trays are the way to go. You may have seen them- they are plastic containers that you drop magically expanding pellets in. These pellets are the kind that you add water to so that they pop up like those dino-shaped sponges we had as kids. Once that wonderful change occurs, you add seeds to the nicely filled out soil pods. The containers and pellets serve as happy little micro-environments for your sprouting seeds. They just love it. I purchased some last year and can vouch for the results.


Being on a more strict gardening budget this year, I decided not to buy the pellets to reuse in the containers I saved from last season. Instead, I've been saving egg cartons. With these I've fashioned my own seed starting trays. These little home-made trays are great because they don't cost anything extra, they give new life to a product that would otherwise be thrown away and when the seedlings are ready to go out in the garden, you just cut the individual "cups" (where each egg previously sat) and plop them into the soil. Since I use paper egg cartons, the paper breaks down, leaving the seedlings' roots relatively undisturbed. You also don't have to worry about drainage, like you would in styrofoam egg cartons. Great, huh?

Materials needed:
Pressed paper (cardboard type- not styrofoam) egg carton
Plastic wrap
Scissors
Toothpicks
Pen
Water
Seed Starting Soil
Spoon or small trowel
Small watering can

Grab your egg carton and lay it open. Mine has a tab on the side, so I'm going to cut that off...




Next cut off the lid...



Place the lid of the carton so it can act like a bowl. Layer a sheet of plastic wrap over this; it will function as the base of our tray. The plastic wrap keeps water from soaking into the base and provides a source of water for the seedlings...




My egg carton has dips on the sides that I will use to water my seedlings. If yours doesn't, cut some in- but not too deep or else water won't stay in the tray...



Stick the egg holder section of the carton on top of the plastic-lined base so they stack together. The egg holder section will contain the soil and seeds...



Fill cups with seed-starting soil. This kind of soil is specially formulated to be easy for seedlings to take root. It's not absolutely necessary, but can help get them off to a good start...





Plant seeds according to instructions on packet...



Label which seeds are where with leftover pieces of carton or paper (I used the tab I cut off in the first step) and a toothpick. Do this as you go so you don't accidentally mislabel a cup or forget where things are...




Place seed tray in a stable area (where you plan to leave it) and fill base with water using your small watering can and the dip in the side of the carton...



Cover with another layer of plastic wrap to create a "greenhouse". This will help retain moisture and some warmth. You can use Ziploc bags for extra thermal retention, but I just stuck with a layer of Saran...



When your seedlings have a couple of leaves (or their first set of "true" leaves), vent the plastic wrap covering to allow air to circulate. Thin to the strongest in each cup if there are spacing restrictions for your plants (usually are) once your seedlings have three sets of leaves (2 sets of true leaves). Harden off before placing them permanently in their outdoor home (very important!). Just cut the cup out and stick your little seedling, paper and all, into its new home. Keep soil at the same level- do not cover higher up the stem. If you need more help when you get to this step, let me know.

That's it! You'll have cute, happy little seedlings in no time. Or in whatever amount of time it takes for them to germinate. Here are some seedlings that I germinated in the same manner last year:




I would love to see pictures if any of you try this!

It's Patriotic and The Promised Post

Gosh, I love those vintage posters from the 1940's. Here's one to go along with our theme here:



I know I haven't posted in a while; I have thought about it, wanted to, and even taken pictures to post up here, but please forgive me... it's nearing the end of the semester and I must keep focused (except for those times when I can't take any more history!).

I promised a while ago that the next post would be about "drainage in containers- and what you thought you knew might be wrong!" Well, that was three posts ago (see how well I stay focused?) and now I believe I must fulfill that promise.

Container gardeners, this one's for you:

When selecting your container, make sure you get a container with good drainage at the bottom or drill some in (preferably more than one drainage hole). If you select a non-plastic pot, like terra cotta, don't try to go crazy with the drill right off. First drill some pilot holes first, and then use the regular bit to finish them off. I caution you with this because otherwise you may end up with a bunch of great terra cotta fragments but no containers.

Get soil that also drains well. When I first started, I thought getting the best value consisted of the biggest bag for the lowest price (coincidentally, it could only be found at a big box store). Alas, I ended up with many things that had to be re-planted (see my strawberry disaster), so I ended up spending more to save my little garden friends. Next time around I checked out the offerings at the local nursery and it was there that I discovered my "swear-by" soil- Gardener's Gold. If you can't find that, get something with a good amount of natural compost, worm castings or cured manure. Another mistake I'd like to educate you about is "Organic" MiracleGro- no, no, no. I've had NOTHING but trouble with it and am swearing it off for the rest of my gardening days. Someone at the nursery can help you find a soil that drains well, or help you add amendments to your soil, such as sand (my favorite amendment). You can add some rocks to your soil mix to also help it drain.

Now is the moment you have all been waiting for- what you thought you knew might be wrong! Exciting and captivating- I know there will be disbelievers in the crowd, but I've got lovely, hearty citrus trees to prove it's true! Ready?

You do not need to put rocks in the bottom of your container to make sure the water drains!

Gasp.

I know. That is what I thought when I first was given this advice by a fellow gardener named "Al" who gives the loveliest and most patient advice. He knows ALL. So I took his advice and it works. There is a catch and I'm going to share it with you: you need a wick.

A wick will draw excess water out long after your pot would drain normally. I was shocked the first time I tried it- I used a screwdriver to stick a wick into a drainage hole (retroactively- the pot had already been in use for a few months), making sure the wick was about 3 inches into the pot so that it got past my rock layer. Like I said- this was when I first learned about it; I had already potted the plant with the rocky bottom for drainage. I watered my plant as usual and the water came out the drainage holes like usual. I thought nothing of it until I came back an hour later to find that (like usual) all the normal drainage holes had stopped draining, but the wick was still dripping like mad! I was absolutely sold.

So here's the deal with the wick- it should be something absorbent- I use a bit of my mop's tassels but you could use a natural cotton yarn piece or a strip of old cotton shirt or something like that. Put the wick strip in one of drainage holes and hold on to it while you fill the bottom portion of the container to make sure it stands up to it's full height. You don't need it to be far into the container, but it does need to be in the soil a couple of inches so it can grab the water and pull it away. Oh, and, you can still use rocks on the bottom to ensure that your soil doesn't runout the drainage holes, but no need to make it a thick layer.

After that, prop your container up so the wick can hang freely a couple of inches from the bottom of the container. If you obstruct it, its purpose is defeated, so no plopping it on the ground! A ghetto solution is the trusty cinder block which can be made prettier with paint or a grass skirt. ;) Wow. That is a ghetto solution x 2.

Ready for an amazing illustration to top off these amazing suggestions?


So, in summation, here is my personal plan of attack: 1. Mix soil with amendments such as a few palm size river rocks, some gravel, sand, etc., to get the proper type of soil for your plant. If your plant likes a little more water retention, focus on peat from a sustainable source, such as sphagnum peat. (And now for a word from our environmental sponsor- me) "Mountain peat is mined from high-altitude wetlands that will take hundreds of years to rejuvenate, if ever. This mining is extremely disruptive to hydrologic cycles and mountain ecosystems. Sphagnum peat is harvested from bogs in Canada and the northern United States. The bogs can be revegetated after harvest and grow back relatively quickly in this moist environment" U of CO. Moving on to step 2. Fill the bottom inch of the container with largish rocks or gravel if necessary to prevent soil run-out (keep holding on to that wick!). Pour in the soil (let go of wick once it is stable and standing straight) to within an inch of the top of your container. Set it up on the cinder block (or fancier structure) in a way that the wick hangs freely from the bottom of the container. Remember, it will only drain if it is not obstructed. Don't worry if some of the rest of the drainage holes are obstructed; the wick is the most important. Water the soil lightly to settle it and plant, plant away. Enjoy happy plants!

Composter

Just wanted to let everyone know that I have received my shiny new composter from Martha Stewart (ok, not personally) and am currently searching for a spot to put it. My dear readers know how small my space is; so if I keep it here, it's a choice between a few precious plants or fresh soil batches at my disposal. What do you all think?

Replanting

Today I got a little email from one of my mom's lifelong best friends, Kathi. She loves plants and gardens as well (she first introduced the term "xeriscaping" to me way back before it was cool). Her email contained a little green "tip" horoscope that she had received and wanted to pass along. It reminded me of something I haven't talked about much since one of my first posts:

Hidden in your vegetable scraps are houseplants waiting to be discovered. Cut off a pineapple top, sit it on top of a jar of water until it grows roots, then plant it in a container of soil and you've got a free indoor tropical plant. Replant the bottom half of a green onion with its roots still intact and you'll have more green onion tops to harvest. Turnips and radishes will bloom when replanted. And even discarded beans can be replanted to provide you with pretty flowers to gaze at later on.

When I got started with my garden last year, I decided to save seeds and portions of fruits and vegetables that had sprouted in my fridge. Many people said it wouldn't work, especially with the seeds, because everything we eat is now GM (genetically modified) so consumers don't try to regrow their own food. That might be true- but I decided to give it a try anyway.

I saved a few clementine seeds as well as lemon, grapefruit, sweet peppers, avocado (everyone's tried this as kids, right?), and onion bulbs; I even let an amaryllis go to seed to see what would happen. Well, guess what ye ol' naysayers?

Everything sprouted. And furthermore, all the vegetables produced.

Of course, you have to wait a while on citrus and avocado plants, since they need to be mature enough to produce any fruit, but I did get the sweetest smelling and beautiful flower on one of my little orange trees this winter. If that is all I ever get from them, I'll be happy. They are beautiful, especially in the middle of winter, and they add a touch of Florida home to our Utah apartment.

The moral of this story is- give it a try. You all have seen what we have done despite other people telling us that it can't be done; go ahead and try planting those seeds from the hot peppers you are using for salsa or the lemon you are juicing. As for me, I'm about to head out to the store for a pineapple. =)

Composting 101

"What's so great about compost?"

I've been asked this a lot since I've had to explain about the MS prize. It seems to be a pressing issue on everyone's mind, so I'll explain what I know about it and how you can get started.



Compost is a digested mix of "brown" and "green" material. It is wonderfully full of nutrients which are delicious to your plants; it helps retain water, promotes good drainage, and keeps plants vigorous and disease free (as well as able to fend off pests). This plant treat can be produced in several ways and in varying amounts depending on your space. And for those of you worried about smelly compost, rest assured that well-maintained and properly mixed compost should not give off a smell. If it does, it's a great indication that you're messing up. =)

Getting started:

Decide what kind of composting you would like to do. Since we are dealing with smaller gardens, the two that are most feasible are vermicomposting (using red worms) or bin composting. Both of these types of composting are aerobic composting, which is the reason they should not give off offensive odors (aerobic composting requires some sort of turning, which mixes in oxygen, whereas anaerobic composting just sits and rots).

The benefit of vermicomposting is that it produces more nutrient-rich compost because of the worm castings that are left behind as waste. The worms used in this process are known as Red Wigglers or red worms. They are not available in your front lawn. (We are not talking about earthworms or "nightcrawlers".) They are, however, available through many gardening centers and mail order for a reasonable price.



These little guys don't require much in the way of housing, but they are particular about their environment. The container must be aerated to allow excess water to drain and for oxygen to enter; the air temperature must be mild (55-75 degrees F), and you can't forget to feed them. =) To learn more about vermicomposting, I suggest you check out the book "Worms Eat my Garbage" written by the Worm Woman, Mary Appelhof. If you've got specific questions like "how many worms should I start with?" or "what should I make my container out of?" let me know and I'll try to help you with specifics.

Bin composting can be done in something as elaborate as a commercially-made tumbler or in as simple as something you create out of chicken wire or wood boards.

This type of composting requires layering and manual turning of materials. The benefit over vermicomposting is that it does not require as much labor. Ideally, it is turned every time you add another layer of material but it's up to you how often it is turned.

(ok, that's a little extreme)

Oh, and yes, you can always compost in a trench or by layering in a container and then covering up with some good soil. Stick your plant right in. I discussed this in the last post, but to find out more about this type of composting, check out the book "Lasagna Gardening" by Patricia Lanza.

On to materials:

A good compost mix contains a nearly even amount of "greens" and "browns" as well as enough water to keep it slightly damp (not dripping). In other words, compost should have about 50% fresh material- things like green grass clippings, tea and coffee grounds (for you tea and coffee drinkers out there- looking in Anne's general direction), apple cores, etc., and 50% dry materials- such as newspaper shreddings, wood chips, sawdust, pine needles and dried leaves. It should feel about as moist as a wrung-out sponge.





Try to make the type and size of the materials as varied as possible. A more diverse use of material allows for more activity in beneficial bacteria as well as a higher nutrient content. When it comes to size, bacteria can obviously break down smaller pieces more quickly, but without larger pieces, your compost may not have enough room for oxygen to flow through and can become anaerobic. (Yuck.)

Some great things to include in your compost include:

eggshells

hair and fur

veggie and fruit peels

fireplace ash

nutshells

lint

tea bags and coffee filters as well as grounds

TP rolls

wool and cotton



Some of the materials you should NOT include in your compost mix include:

Black walnut tree leaves or twigs-releases substances that might be harmful to plants

Coal or charcoal ash- might contain substances harmful to plants

Dairy products (incl. egg yolks)- create odor problems and attract pests such as rodents and flies

Diseased or insect-ridden plants- it'll transfer back to other plants

Fats, grease, lard, or oils- create odor problems and attract pests

Meat or fish bones and scraps- see above

Pet wastes or litter- might contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans

Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides- might kill beneficial composting organisms

---

Compost that is ready to use will be a deep color with an earthy smell.



In addition to using the compost under the plants (as a soil ammendment), try using it as a mulch around the top of your plants. And remember, if it smells, something is wrong- add a bit of the "browns" to your pile and give it a good turn.

Hope this intro helps get you on your way; if you have any specific questions, let me know and I'll try to help you out. =)

Next time-
The right mix of soil & drainage in containers- what you thought was right may be wrong! (That'll keep you riveted, eh?)

My Five Minutes of Fame

Actually, it's more like four minutes. I edited this because there was quite a bit of air time between the parts about me. And really, that's what we're here for, right? Kidding.

Anyway, I was nervous, and wasn't really sure when I was actually on the air because of being on hold, so I sound pretty unexcited in my first moment. No, my dear readers, do not let that fool you. I was running around with excitement. It was a great experience. Thanks to you guys for making it happen.

The end of the recording didn't work out, but the guys on the show (who were awesome!) said they would send me a copy so I can make one for my mom- since she missed it (in a brief moment of forgetfulness- she had been waiting all morning for it to come on!). For those who just can not wait to hear how funny my voice sounds on the radio, here you go:

Getting Your Soil Ready and an Early Spring Crop

The ground can become leeched of nutrients after a long growing season so it is next-to-imperative that you get that soil ready before planting or else you risk sub-par results. If you can, add compost or "cured" manure to the soil before setting your seeds or plants out. You can also make a trough where your plants will be located and put in crushed eggshells, matchsticks, coffee grounds (for those coffee drinkers out there), etc. The point is to get nutrients back in the depleted soil which in turn helps your plants fend off diseases, combat pest attacks, and generally have a more robust health record.

If compost is not feasible for you because of budget restraints, you might want to check out the book Lasagna Gardening for Small Spaces: A Layering System for Big Results in Small Gardens and Containers by Patricia Lanza. (There is a version for larger gardens as well.) It has a lot of great ideas about getting those amazing nutrients back in the soil without too much mess or hassle.


Once you're happy with your newly nutritioned (can I make that up?) soil, you are ready to plant. A great early crop can be found in leafy salad greens such as mesclun, romaine, and spinach. Generally, these types of plants thrive with the cooler temperatures of spring and fall but will bolt (get gangly and go to seed) if planted too late in the summer when temperatures soar. It's even been told that lettuce seed will germinate on snow, although I've never felt the desire to give that one a try. I do have lettuce that has been outside all winter; and while it has not gotten very big, they certainly have grown.

My advice: do not wait too long to get them out there.

Growing lettuce is one of the easiest gardening tasks you will have. To begin, I simply prepare the soil by dampening it and tilling a bit to provide a place for the seeds to "stick". I then scatter the lettuce seeds over the soil without covering them. (This advice would be the same for in-ground as well as container gardens.) There are two schools of thought about how thickly to sow as well as thinning; seed packets generally say to thin the seedlings after a period of growth, but many humans (I'm one of them) say to let them be. Allowing them to be slightly crowded encourages the plants to stay smaller, ensuring that you will have an abundance of tender "baby" greens (which are more delicious, anyway, in my opinion!).

A few other early spring plants are peas (I prefer Sugar Snap), sweet peas (a flower), carrots, onion, garlic, and broccoli. You may be surprised by the variety of things you can start planting now. Planting dates vary across the country so make sure you check accordingly before getting your seeds in the soil. A county extension can help with this and is a great resource for gardeners. Keep that one bookmarked in your browser!

Happy Gardening!

Seed Swap

Last gardening season we grew a ridiculous amount of plants. I loved it, my husband loved it, neighbors loved it- but what we did NOT love was how much plants cost. Even seed is pricier than I expected. So my little head got to thinking that I could try a seed swap.



I'm not sure how many of you out there have seeds or collect them, but this might be a way to get your hands into gardening without much startup. Interested? It could go something like this:

Say you've got a packet of seeds, but you only need half. You've also got a plant that can be propogated (basically- regrown) by cuttings or division. You list whatever you've got to share. Pretty soon, there's a healthy little seed exchange list going. You take a look around, find some stuff you'd be interested in, and ask that person if they'd like to trade. Seeds can easily be mailed without much special consideration (mark "hand-stamp" on the envelope) and some cuttings are okay mailed as well.

I could get this set up pretty easily if there's interest.

I'm probably the only nerdy-enough person to want to swap seeds, though. ;)